Tenon Cutting

Tenon Cutting

I have a horse with a lacerated deep flexor tenon that will not heal and I need to know what my next step is.?

We had an ultrasound done 2 weeks ago and it showed that his superficial flexor tenon is completely severed and his deep flexor tendon is only cut. We then cast him with a PVC cast and waited until today. The vet came and did another ultrasound and found that his tendon is not improving and is making very little scar tissue. Now we have a few options. I am told that I can have surgery done to fuse his ankle so that he will have a peg leg and no longer need his tendon. I am also told that I can have stem cells implanted into his leg from his tail and try to grow a new tendon. OR I can have the tendon stitched and hang him in a sling for 6 weeks. I am really not sure what the best idea is for him. I need to know if anyone has had this problem and what they did, if they have had any successful treatment, or any information you can give to help me make the best decision for him. He is a family friend and I do not want to have to put him down. Thank You

One of my horses recently severed the extensor tendon in his hind leg. The equine hospital vet surgeon did lots of work with triple layers of stitches on the wound, but could not rejoin the tendon ends due to fraying and contamination.

The horse has been in a PVC splint for 3 weeks now, and will be in it a minimum of 4 weeks more.

This same horse came to me from the track with an 11% lesion in his suspensory. It took 6 months to heal that.

I think your vet may be rushing things - tendons heal very, very slowly and two weeks isn't enough to do more than begin to heal, in my experience.

I'd get a 2nd opinion. I'd keep the PVC splint on longer before I'd make a decision to fuse it, put him down, or do some surgery that sounds expensive and experimental.

As long as the horse is comfortable and some healing, even if very slow, is going on I wouldn't rush into more dramatic stuff.

And I'd definitely get a board certified equine specialist to look at him.

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Inspect Furniture Joints Before Buying

After wood the most important factor that determines the quality of furniture is the quality of joints. Good joining can make even average quality wood last really long. On the other hand, the best quality oak could also be rendered useless due to loose fittings.

All furniture is put together in a series of joints. Most structural problems involve joint weakening or failure. The joints used in good wooden furniture, such as Amish furniture, are usually stronger than those in cheap pieces, but age and abuse can take their toll even when the original construction was good.

Knowing the various joints used on a piece of furniture will help you evaluate the quality of a furniture piece before purchase. If you are a DIY type, having the following information will also help you repair them. Furniture bought online should be inspected in detail on delivery. If you buy Amish furniture online, you can be sure of high quality craftsmanship.

Dovetail joints: Dovetail joints consist of wedge-shaped openings, the dovetails, holding matching pins cut in the joining piece. In this joint, the dovetail goes completely through both pieces of wood. The pins in handmade dovetails are usually narrower than the spaces between the pins. In the older days only a few dovetails were used and the tails and pins did not match exactly. With modern equipment, the tails and the pins are exactly the same size and more dovetails are used in each joint.

Mortise-and-tenon joints: In this type of joint, a prong or tongue of wood, the tenon, is secured in a hole, the mortise, in the joining piece. Mortise-and-tenon joints are extremely strong; they're used chiefly in chairs and tables.

Dado joints: A dado is a slot cut into the face or end of a piece of wood; the joining piece fits into this slot. In a simple dado joint, the slot goes completely across the wood, and the edges of the joining piece are visible along the edges of the base piece. Dadoes and stopped dadoes have considerable shear strength and are used chiefly for shelving.

Lapped joints: Lapped joints are cut with both joining pieces notched or slanted to the same depth. Lapped joints offer a large glue area, but they aren't particularly strong. Cross-laps are used to join crossing pieces; half-laps and sloped laps are used to join the ends of long pieces. They're often used in drawer guide framing pieces and may be pinned with nails or screws from the back.

Butt joints: In this type of joint, the joining pieces are simply butted together with no integral fastener. Butt joints are weak and are sometimes fastened or held together with metal surface plates. They are used in chairs, tables, dressers, and cabinet pieces.

Miter joints: In a miter, the joining pieces are cut at a 45-degree angle and joined to form a right angle. Miters are used for decorative molding and for frames. They are very weak and are often reinforced with dowels, spline, or mechanical fasteners. Sometimes triangular glue blocks are used for strength; the blocks may be reinforced by screws.

Doweled joints: The doweled joint is a simple variation of the mortise-and-tenon joint, with dowels instead of a cut tenon holding the joining pieces together. Doweled joints require precision equipment. They are strong and are common in chairs, tables, and cabinets, usually on stretchers and other framing pieces.

Splined joints: In a splined joint, the edges of the joining pieces are grooved or dadoed to match each other and a reinforcing spline is inserted into the grooves to hold the pieces together. Splined joints are used chiefly to join narrow boards.

Rabbet joints: The rabbet is a reinforced butt joint, with one or both joining members notched to fit together. It is usually reinforced with screws or nails. Rabbet joints are easy to make and very strong. They are used chiefly for shelving and at the corners of cabinet pieces.

Drawer construction is generally a good indication of overall furniture quality. Doweled and dovetailed drawer joints indicate a high degree of craftsmanship. However, modern machine technology, good bonding glue and pneumatically driven staples coated with resin have afforded savings in construction while providing durability. The Amish craftsmen who make wholesale Amish furniture take very good care of the quality of the joints. Quality wood furniture purchased today can be used for a lifetime.

About the Author

The author is an expert in the field of interior design and home improvement techniques. She has interacted in depth with Amish Furniture manufacturers. Amish Oak Furniture is made with the highest quality wood with impeccable joints that last for generations.

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